One of the most common myths plaguing the Betta fish community is that Betta’s are brutal killers that will tear apart any fish or other creature placed in its territory, making it impossible to establish a community tank with this solitary species. This myth is often perpetuated by big chain pet stores to sell low volume, typically less than 1 gallon, overpriced Betta fish tanks. While it is true that two male Betta fish should never be placed in the same undivided tank, no matter how many gallons it contains, it is untrue that all fish species are incompatible with Betta splendens. It should also be noted that female Betta fish are able to be grouped together in what is called a sorority, so long as there are at least 5 to 7 females in the tank and that there are no overly-aggressive ones that will disturb the sorority balance. When considering the establishment of a community tank with a Betta fish, it is important to take tank volume into account. While many pet stores still advertise the old rule of one inch of fish per gallon, this is a misleading way to figure out how large of a tank is needed to build a community. If this rule was taken literally, it would mean that in order to have 10 one-inch fish in a single tank then a 100 gallon fish tank would be needed. However, this is not the case since there are many deciding factors that determine the minimum volume needed for various communities. Such factors include filtration, bio load, and the presence of live plants. Because of these varying factors, there is no minimum for community tanks. Since a community tank can technically include merely having a single Betta fish and a single snail, it is also a loose term. Although community tanks can be smaller, generally most community tanks that will contain more than one fish living together will need at least 10 gallons. Depending on the desired tank mates, the required care for each species, and other wants for a community tank, a different minimum volume is needed. Because of this, it is important to do research behind each species that will be considered and added into a community tank. Schooling species are often popular with Betta splendens but those usually require around groups of 5 to 6 at the minimum each and different species produce different bio loads. Keeping this in mind is just as important as considering compatibility with Betta fish in order to run a healthy, happy, community fish tank. Considering Stock for Your Community Tank Because, like people, all fish have different personalities, they may not always get along with each other even if they are compatible tank mates. This is especially true when it comes to Betta fish, with individual Betta fish possibly being more territorial than other Betta fish of the same species and thus they may attempt to kill any addition to its territory while others may have the opposite reaction. This should be kept in mind when attempting to stock a functioning community. A school of tetras, for example, may be purchased and incompatible due to personality reasons and what to do with the incompatible fish needs to be taken into consideration. The following are generally accepted tank mates for Betta splendens: Barbs: Schooling fish Cherry barb Corydorus Catfish: Schooling fish Albino cory Habrosus cory Habastatus cory Julii cory Leopard cory Panda cory Pygmy cory Guppies: Schooling fish "Feeder" guppy Non-colorful female guppy *fancy guppies should be avoided because their colorful tails can cause Betta fish to aggresively attack them Loaches: Schooling fish Khuli loach Yoyo loach Platies: Schooling Fish Non-colorful platies Plecos: One-per-tank Bristlenose pleco Bushynose pleco Rasboras: Schooling Fish Galaxy rasbora Harelquin rasbora Rasbora brigittae Scissor-tail rasbora Snails: Non-schooling Apple snail (also called mystery snail) Malaysian snai Nerite snail Pond snail Tetras: Schooling fish Black neon tetra Black phantom tetra Bloodfin tetra Cardinal tetra Ember tetra GloFish Glowlight tetra Head and tail light tetra Neon tetra Pristilla tetra Rummy nose tetra Von-rio tetra X-ray tetra Please note that some of the schooling fish can be placed by themselves but prefer to be in a school, while others must remain in a school. Various cory catfish can school together. Before stocking, all species must have research done on them in order to determine what good mixes are. Finding out their bio loads (high or low), water conditions, live plant needs, and other details that may pertain to the type of tank being considered is a requirement for a successful community. Betta fish should be added after establishing a community inside the tank because otherwise the Betta may become territorial and not welcome any newcomers. Be sure to watch the other fish too--tetras have been known for picking on Betta fish by biting their tails. This can sometimes lead to death or infection. Before adding fish to a community, it is also necessary to quarantine the species in order to ensure a healthy addition. Diseases can easily be spread in a tank through careless adding of new tank mates and can potentially wipe out an entire community. Source: bettafishawareness
In this topic, will be explaining how to successfully keep a Female Betta Sorority, the basics, how to, In this topic, will be explaining how to successfully keep a Female Betta Sorority, the basics, how to, setting up, etc. First and foremost, you may ask: "What is a Betta sorority tank?". A Betta sorority is a tank full of female bettas that (Hopefully) can live in peace together. I bet your thinking, “But I thought when Bettas are together, they fight?”. You see females are generally more peaceful / passive than male Bettas, they can in most cases be kept in set ups with multiple other female bettas & community set-ups (Unlike most males). Again, let me remind you that a Betta sorority tank has a 50/50 chance of being successful (Every betta has a different personality - it really just depends on each of the individuals bettas personalities if they can do ok with each other). I have found that, in most sororities, the female bettas form a pecking order and are able to successfully live with one another. Anyway, enough talk about a sorority, let's get on to the tank details. Tank Size: For keeping a sorority, at least a 10 gallon minimum is recommended (Some may disagree though), preferably a 20 gallon aquarium minimum. Anything under 10 gallons will not work due to room and bioload issues. Why I recommend a 10 gallon is because in a sorority, you will need at least 4 - 6 girls or more (And a 10 gallon can hold up to 6 girls comfortably). Don't ever put just two or three females together, it won't work. You see, with two females, there will be one Superior female and one Inferior female - the Superior female will have the dominance of the tank most indefinitely attack the Inferior female and most likely kill her. With three, the two dominant females will gang up on the more passive girl and kill her given the opportunity. Four, I have had success with, but I would recommend that you start out with a higher number. Make sure that you have a lid for your sorority as females bettas are excellent jumpers. I have had 2 deaths from Bettas jumping (Female) so far and it wasn't pleasant. From what I have looked at, it seems that females jump more often than males (Why I said is because with all that extra finnage, males don't really attempt to jump out of the tank as often as females - though this does not mean it isn't possible for males either). I would as well recommend a light for the tank. It's more appealing to view your bettas with a light than it is without and the tank just doesn’t look as good without a light. Some lights, like fluorescent as well bring out the Bettas best color. Lights are a must if you plan on keeping live plants (And it depends on the type of plants you want to keep you might have to get more lighting or not). Substrate: Really any substrate for this set-up will do. You could either do sand, regular aquarium gravel, etc. But if you do decide to use sand, make sure that you pop the nitrogen pockets in the sand every water change because if not, it could be deadly to your females (And other fish as well). Just when doing the water changes, simply stir your fingers around in the sand. Or as an alternative, just buy some Malaysian Trumpet Snails (They bury themselves deeper than what other snails would and will pop the nitrogen pockets for you instead. If you plan on keeping the tank planted, don't bother vacuuming the tank, just do a regular water change. I use black aqua soil in my 10 gallon sorority and the females don't mind it at all. The black makes the green from the plants pop more as well. Filter: Now you will need to look for a nice filter for the tank, just like any other tank. The filter rules applies to this tank just as it does any other tank. Just in case you don't know, I will teach you. Generally you will be wanting a filter that turns over the water 8X - 10X the water volume and that equals the amount of GPH (Gallons Per Hour) required for the filter. So basically: 10 gallons X 10 = 100 GPH, 30 gallons X 10 = 300 GPH, 55 gallons X 10 = 550 GPH, and so on. I would recommend that you use 10X (I personally the most filtration I can get on a tank without a problem). So when choosing your filter, make sure that it you look at the GPH of the filter prior to purchase (It should be somewhere on the back or bottom or wherever). The only thing that you need to watch out for is if the flow is strong on the filter or not (Bettas are not very found of strong flows at all) - if your filter does have a strong flow, add some filter floss at the output (Put enough so that the flow is reduced, but not stopped). If you plan on having no filter on your tank and daily 100% water changes a day, that's fine too. It's a lot of work, but I love that people are that dedicated to their fish. Just make sure to include plants in your tank because they work as a form of filtration by neutralizing all the waste your fish make, and making the water safe for your fish. I personally recommend the AquaClear series for smaller tanks because they don't produce much of a strong flow and the flow is adjustable. I have an AC20 on my 10 gallon sorority and a AC30 on my 10 gallon Endler breeding tank and neither the bettas or endlers are bothered by the soft flow. Heater & Thermometer: Another important need for a Betta sorority (Really any tank) is a heater. Bettas are a Tropical species and will always do better in warmer waters than cooler waters (Although they can survive in cooler waters, again they are a tropical fish, would not be as comfortable and would have some health issues as well). If you plan on heating your tank simply by room temperature, that's your choice. Now, you will need to look for a heater that will be able to heat the tank up to 86 degrees Fahrenheit (As in some situations you may need it). A good general rule to choosing a heater is using the 50 watts per 10 gallon rule. As for a thermometer, don't buy the ones that stick to the glass as they are inaccurate. Use glass thermometers, they will most likely give the most accurate result. You may even get an electronic thermometer. I personally like the electronic thermometer, easy to use and doesn't take much space. Decorations: This is one of the most important things to focus on when keeping a sorority. Each of the females will need to claim their own territory or "home" that they can patrol around and hide in when necessary. There are many decorations to choose from, but I would recommend that you at least have a few caves and quite a few plants (Real or fake) in there with them. If you look to use fake plants, I recommend that you use silk plants so they won't rip the bettas fins (There are a few plastic plants that will work, but you will have to test the plastic plants before you put them in your tank. To perform this test, you will need to get a piece of panty hose and run it across the fake plant - if the panty hose goes over the plant just fine, the plant is safe, if it snags, it will most likely do the same thing to your bettas fins). If you plan on making your tank planted, go ahead, it'll make it seem more natural for your Bettas. But if you do plant the tank, make sure that you meet the requirements of the plant you have. I have live and plastic plants in my sorority currently as well as a few caves and my bettas love it. I plan on removing the plastic plants soon and make it all real plants. Picking and Adding your Betta Females: First and foremost, before you add any females to your tank, make sure that the tank is cycled and ready for their introduction. When choosing your Bettas, get them from a good source. If you can, try and get sisters as they would have been together since they were hatched and would be used to each other, however this is not always possible. Also, make sure that they are generally all the same size, none bigger and smaller than the others. Now, adding the female Bettas is not the same as adding other fish, like 2 to 3 at a time. You have to add the Bettas all within the same time, if not, you would most definitely have to rearrange your tank and try to introduce them together again. Now, the technique that I am about to tell you was picked up a long time ago from another longtime fishkeeper and always has worked for me. You start with your most passive female, put her in the tank and give her 15 or 20 minutes to nose around and check things out. Then you add the next least aggressive female and watch them closely, always being ready to pull one out immediately if things get too rough. A small amount of fin nipping and body slamming is to be expected, but if you see one aggressively attacking another then it is time to make other arrangements for one of them. Continue to add your females, one every 15 to 20 minutes in the order of most passive to most aggressive with your most aggressive Female going in last. Watch the tank carefully the next week or two. At first, the females will be chasing and nipping each other, but it shouldn't be too bad. Eventually, they will most likely form a pecking order among themselves and all the fighting will subside. Make sure not to overstock the tank either, 6 is the max female bettas, 4 is the minimum (but I would really recommend that 6 is the minimum as well). Bettas, unlike other fish, seem to like it overcrowded with other female Bettas. If you decide to add more fish, besides bettas, I would recommend that you get a bigger tank and compatible tanks-mates. That pretty much covers all the basics to keeping a female Betta sorority tank. But always have a back-up plan in case that any female Betta you have is too aggressive to be kept in a sorority and must be kept by itself. Coast Gem USA carries a wide variety of female Bettas for you to start your own Sorority tank. And always remember to have fun, Thanks! Source: fishforums
Betta breeding can be very time consuming and expensive. Betta can release over 500 eggs in a single spawn and you will end up with over 300 juveniles to care for if most survive! You must plan and be clear about your objective and goals you want to achieve out of this spawning activity. The large scale breeding for supply requires a large investment of time, space, and money. Due to the high startup and supply costs, it is very difficult to make a profit breeding betta, so this should not be your goal for some time. Are you interested in genetics, supplying a local pet store, or breeding show? Or are you simply in love with bettas and want to take your hobby to the next level? When trying to breed any animal, having as much knowledge as you can about the species is important. You must read and research about betta care and breeding. You can breed betta fish at home easily if you follow our guide. So let’s dive in the step by step guide to how to breed a betta fish! Before that see this beautiful video of betta fish breeding! You can even watch betta fish eggs hatching in it Table of Contents 1. First Step: Choosing Bettas to Breed 2. Second Phase: betta fish breeding tank setup 3. Third Phase: Observing the Behaviour 4. Fourth Phase: The preparation 5. Fifth Phase: Introducing Mating Pair and Spawning 6. Sixth Phase: Post Spawning Procedures Conclusion 1. FIRST STEP: CHOOSING BETTAS TO BREED The first thing you need to consider is the age of bettas. The male must be at least 3 ½ months of age with at least an inch of body length. Males can develop an interest in the opposite sex as early as 2.5 – 3 months but it is advisable to wait until their reproductive system is fully developed. Females mature faster sexually than males, so make sure that the female is at least 3 months old to ensure that her reproductive organs are fully functioning. The body length is an important factor in the mating process because they use their bodies to wrap around their female partner. You, therefore, need to make sure that the male is larger than the female! 2. SECOND PHASE: BETTA FISH BREEDING TANK SETUP Things you may need includes: A 10 gallons gallon clear plastic Sterlite tub or an empty 10-gallon tank (be equipped with a removable divider and a few hiding places) 25-watt heater: heater set to around 80 °F (27 °C) An adjustable filter (such as a sponge filter with a gang valve). Lots of Christmas moss Indian almond leaf (only available online) Plastic wrap A light for above the tank well-conditioned Bettas (preferably siblings) Your breeding tank should not have gravel or other substrate as the falling eggs can get lost at the bottom. Only fill the tank with 5″-6″ of water and should be clean and free of any parasites and harmful bacteria. You will also need to provide a structure that will enable the female to either run away or hide from the male if she needs to. The way to do that is to add some plants, driftwood or artificial plants near one side of the aquarium. The purpose of this structure is to provide an escape route and a safe haven for the female during those times that she needs to get away from her aggressive male suitor. This is important because otherwise, the male could kill the female during the mating process if the female has no way to escape him. 3. THIRD PHASE: OBSERVING THE BEHAVIOUR Put the pair in separate containers or same container with a divider so they can see each other. However, at the same time, you need to be able to provide a non-transparent barrier that you can put between them when needed. This barrier could be cardboard or anything opaque that will prevent them from seeing each other. Remove the non-transparent barrier every once in a while, (about every 3 days) to see the pair’s reaction to each other’s presence. If they are ready to breed, you should see a frenzied reaction from them that looks like they are “going at each other” the moment they are aware of each other’s presence. The male will swim around, displaying his fins, flaring and will also create a bubble nest, and the female will display dark vertical striped on its body (usually visible only on dark colored betta females). 4. FOURTH PHASE: THE PREPARATION Set the temperature to 76 – 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Increase the frequency with which you feed the targeted pair for a week or two before introducing them to their mating tank. The increased feeding is important to do because they will need a lot of energy for the mating process. When feeding, you also need to pay attention to the amount of food that you provide, because overfeeding can cause a disease called “dropsy”, where the fish’s body will swell, and the scales stand up. (It is very difficult to cure a betta of this disease). Perform frequent water changes (~50% water change every 2 days) and add salt (about ¼ tsp non-iodized salt per 10 gallons) to the tank with every water change. It is also helpful to introduce tannins with every water change. There are several ways to do this. The quickest way is to let a tea bag soak in the tank until the water gets light to medium brown in color. You can also brew the tea first, then let it cool to roughly the same temperature as your aquarium before adding it to the tank. You can also add tannins to the tank by first microwaving a dried brown leaf for 30 seconds to kill any bacteria, then placing it into the tank. Use a medicine dropper to add 10-20 drops of the tea to the tank. Position the escape structure near the filter. This way the filter can provide additional structure behind which the female can hide and escape, and it can also provide a source of oxygenated water to help the female recover from the numerous chasings and bitings that she will typically suffer during the spawning ritual. Position the heater and targeted spawning area opposite the filter and escape structure – diagonally opposite is preferable. You want to have the source of heat close where the fry will hatch and where the pair will mate. Position the targeted spawning area diagonally on the opposite side of the filter ensures that the targeted spawning area has little or no water movement. For the spawning area, the classic approach is using a half Styrofoam cup or a piece of waxed paper to provide the platform for the male to build his bubble nest. My preference is to use a dried leaf (Indian Almond/Cattapa leaf) and/or a floating water sprite plant. The reason for using the dried leaf is because it not only provides a bubble nest platform but also produces tannins beneficial to the mating pair. Use additional tea bags in the spawning tank if needed to help induce the spawning action. The leaves of the water sprite provide a natural platform for the male’s bubble nest, its roots provide a natural hiding place for the fry, as well as a platform for infusoria to accumulate. The water sprite will also help to absorb the toxins in the water such as ammonia, nitrites, etc. (Recently I found that the male bettas will also create bubble nests under duckweed.) Lower the water level in the tank down to a depth of about 4 to 6 inches so that the male will not have to spend as much energy trying to retrieve the falling eggs from the bottom of the tank and placing them in the bubble nest. 5. FIFTH PHASE: INTRODUCING MATING PAIR AND SPAWNING It is best to place the two members of the mating pair into the tank one at a time instead of simultaneously. You can start with either sex, but my preference is to start with the female and put her behind a transparent barrier so that the male can see her. This transparent barrier (usually referred to as the “transparent chute”) could be a clear soda bottle with the bottom cut off. Introduce the male to a section of the aquarium where he will not readily see the female. Let the male adjust to the new environment and allow him to discover his mate. Set the temperature to 81- 82 degrees Fahrenheit. This change in temperature will help induce them to be in spawning condition. Once the male sees his mate, he should be showing interest in getting to her and will start flaring his fins to show off. The female should respond positively by showing vertical marks on her body, flaring her fins and/or acting like she wants to get to the mate also. If they do not exhibit such behavior, introduce more tannins. There is no lethal dosage for tannins so do not worry if the water becomes dark brown. Once they exhibit this behavior, time the release of the female for when the male is not around or is otherwise out of the male’s view. The process of discovery helps increase the chances of a successful spawn. The pair should start spawning in 48-72 hours. Chances are that they will spawn 99% of the time if you follow the procedure described above. If they do not, other things you can try include: Introducing an additional female into the tank Changing either member of the mating pair and/or Repeating this process from the beginning. Introducing another female into the tank is suggested because this may trigger the bettas’ natural aggressive nature, which in turn will lead to spawning action. The suggestion to change either member of the mating pair is based on the observations of many breeders that individual bettas have definite preferences when it comes to mates. One female will show its vertical marks to one male but not to another male, and another male will show no interest in one female, but will actively pursue another female. Changing the female can be a good option as it is reported to result in spawning within 2 days. It is recommended to keep the lights of the mating tank on day and night from the time the mating pair are introduced to the mating tank up until the fry are free swimming. There is one school of thought that believes that constant light helps induce spawning and also helps the male take care of the eggs so that they will hatch. 6. SIXTH PHASE: POST SPAWNING PROCEDURES Remove the female the moment the spawning process has ended. An indicator that the process has ended will be the observation that the female is staying away from the bubble nest for a long period of time after she releases the last batch of eggs. You must take the female out of that tank the same day the spawning is completed. Otherwise, she will be very tired and hungry and will, therefore, be very tempted to eating those eggs to replace her spent energy. You can keep the male with the fry for up to 5 days to take care of the fry. Double the water level at this point to reduce the amount of toxic elements in the water. Check this video of Betta fry to get amusement! Feed the male with Baby Brine Shrimp(BBS). The bigger fry eats them also, which helps them grow faster. You can feed the smaller fry with an infusoria (using a medicine dropper) and microworm combination the moment they are free swimming. They typically free swim within 2-3 days after the spawn. To culture infusoria, put java moss into a container with used aquarium water. Add Liquifry No. 1 into that container and let it sit 2-3 days before siphoning it out with a medicine dropper. In the absence of Liquifry No. 1, you can use fresh egg yolk as a substitute. On the 3rd day of feeding, add vinegar eels as part of the fry menu. On the 5th day of feeding, stop feeding infusoria but continue with the vinegar eel and microworm combination. At the same time, feed the father and larger fry with BBS. I typically keep a Chinese Golden Algae Eater in the spawning tank so that it can eat any uneaten food and debris, thus helping to minimize the development of waste byproducts from rotting food, as this would be lethal to the fry. I also add 3-5 drops of Tetra Aqua Easy Balance per 10 gallons every week to the tanks as a precaution. CONCLUSION All in all, I would say that the key to increasing your chances of a successful spawn is CHANGE. Change in the temperature, feeding pattern, water quality, mating environment and in mating partners. Follow these guidelines, and I’m sure you’ll be successful! Resource: leaffin.com
If you buy from multiple sources (online, other retailers, or fish from other hobbyists' tanks) then If you buy from multiple sources (online, other retailers, or fish from other hobbyists' tanks) then quarantine can be a very useful and efficient tool to ensure that your aquarium remains healthy. If you intend to keep more delicate and disease-prone species such as Discus or more delicate fish, then a quarantine period might be advisable, even if they are from your regular store. If you have had a tank established without addition of livestock for an extended period of time (years or more), then it is definitely a good idea to quarantine any new animals. Your tank will have been isolated from many pathogens and your pets' immunity will have been shaped by the tank conditions. The addition of new fish brings new microbial challenges, and your native initial population could suffer. There are many different methods of quarantine and to list them all would take considerable time. The basics, however, are to isolate the new fish in a different tank then your main tanks BUT sharing the same water parameters. To do this, you need an appropriately sized tank that is adequate for the needs of the new fish and a mature filter (or mature media that can be placed into a filter) suitable for the quarantine tank. A mature filter is a filter or media that has been established for some time and has a healthy amount of good bacteria to breakdown. Temperatures should be identical to the tank it will be going into or slightly higher to boost the immune system of the fish and speed up the life cycle of any parasites the new stock may be carrying. Provide shelter and hiding places if needed to ensure the comfort of any inhabitants and minimize any stress that can lower fishes' immune systems. Fill the tank with as much mature water as you can spare from your main tank. Acclimate the newly purchased fish as you normally would, and then leave the fish in the quarantine tank for a period of 2 to 4 weeks. Feed as normal and perform water changes weekly. After the time has elapsed and assuming the fish have shown no signs of illness or disease, they can be introduced to their new tank. While in quarantine, some fish keepers will treat their fish with medications or treatments to kill bacteria or parasites. While preventative treatment can be a good idea, always remember that any treatment given to an aquatic animal can be stressful if not properly or appropriately administered. Always follow the exact dosing directions of a particular medication as under dosing or overdosing may have adverse effects or delay the fish’s recovery.
quarium Salt is used both inside and outside the freshwater aquariums. Most of the hobbyist use aquarium salt as a crude medication to deal with various parasites infections and diseases. Aquarium Salt is used both inside and outside the freshwater aquariums. Most of the hobbyist use aquarium salt as a crude medication to deal with various parasites infections and diseases. Further benefits of aquarium salt include reducing osmotic pressure, helping in healing wounds, minimizing stress, prevention of nitrite poisoning, the preventive measure against various parasitic infections and is believed to cure various diseases like fungus, flukes, white spot, velvet disease et cetera. Before moving to the benefits of aquarium salt let us first understand about aquarium salt with its types and usage. WHAT IS AQUARIUM SALT? Aquarium salt is a salt made up of the evaporated sea salt which is widely used in today’s aquarium. But don’t get confused with aquarium salt as a table salt or iodized salt. Table salt or iodized salt has anti-caking additives but the pure salt like aquarium salt does have these additives. And also keep in mind that you should not add too much of aquarium salt to your fish tank because too much of the salt will kill your fish damaging fish’s kidneys. You need a dose of ½ teaspoon of aquarium salt per gallon of water. And another thing to keep in mind is that, when the water of the fish tank evaporates, aquarium salt does not. So, while adding water to your tank to cover the evaporated portion, you should not add salt. You should only add aquarium salt to your tank when you do a water change. There are many benefits of aquarium salt. Aquarium salt helps the fish to live longer and improve the health of the fish by improving the gill function which helps the fish to breathe easily. Aquarium salt also provides the necessary electrolytes which are very important to reach the peak coloration and vitality. These electrolytes in water may lose when the water is changed in the aquarium and need to be replaced with a new aquarium salt. Aquarium salt can be used to reduce the fishes' stress and helps in slime coat production. These salt also help in killing the parasites which are very harmful to the fish in the aquarium. We should not add a lot of aquarium salt in the aquarium, we need to add only the right portion needed by the aquarium size and type of fish you are keeping in the aquarium. It covers a range of different salts which we can add to the aquarium water. The use of salt in an aquarium helps to inhibit algae which keep the aquarium free from slimy stuff on the glass. It also helps the boosts the fish immune system and helps in recovering from the wounds. Salt also keeps away many pathogens and fungi, improving the fish health. A common infection ich or ick, among fish, is caused by the protozoa. Other benefits of aquarium salt are that it helps fish recover from the injuries, torn bacterial infection and bitten fins. It also reduces the fish stress by aiding the gill function. By adding the aquarium salt in the aquarium the fish kidneys do less work because the water which is absorbed in the blood with the help of gills is reduced. It might look slightly counterintuitive to add salt to a freshwater fish tank, but certain aquarists believe that adding salt to the fish tank will benefit the fish. Not all specialists trust salt in a freshwater tank a good thing, but most agree that if you do enhance salt, it should be the true kind of salt and for the accurate reasons. TYPES OF AQUARIUM SALT It may appear a little counterintuitive to add salt to a freshwater fish tank; however, some aquarists trust that there are many benefits of aquarium salt, adding salt to the fish tank will benefit the fish. But, not all specialists trust salt in a freshwater tank a decent thing, but most agree that if you do add salt, it should be the right kind and right amount of salt, for the correct reasons. There are lots of salt available but only a few of them are appropriate to be used in aquarium water. The different types of aquarium salt available are given below:- FRESHWATER AQUARIUM SALT The exercise of adding salt like Sodium Chloride, rock salt, table salt, solar salt, aquarium salt to freshwater aquariums takes around nearly as extensive as the hobby. There are numerous reasons why hobbyists add salt to the aquarium, stress reduction, medicating, addition hardness, then for fish frequently found in salty water. It has turned out to be a common practice for employees of big box stores to tell all of their freshwater customers to increase a teaspoon of salt per 10 gallons. This is not a great practice or greatest advanced that hobbyist participates in, nor one recommended. Before you add salt to a freshwater aquarium, you should understand why you are doing so, and several likely side properties. NON-IODIZED ROCK SALT Non-iodized salt is a superior type of salt that does not comprise a chemical element. This salt is similar to “regular” iodized (or, table) salt. Both have sodium chloride as their main fundamental; nevertheless, but iodized salt has the chemical element iodine additional. Non-Iodized consists of less potassium iodate solution. This is a very low cost and effective manner of providing the iodine. Non-iodized salt is usually made by evaporating the water from wells and also lakes with a high salt content. Moreover, mining of rock salt is an alternative large source of non-iodized salt. MARINE AQUARIUM SALT Marine Aquarium salt is a salt in which there are traces of minerals and elements which is very helpful in keeping the pH level higher in the water. The exact amount of trace minerals and elements are varied from manufacturers to manufacturers. A quality marine mix is one that is balanced and which is also exactly balanced in pH level. The right amount of optimal calcium, right alkaline and strontium levels. Fish will take full advantage of this salt in the aquarium to live healthier and longer. WHAT ARE THE BENEFITS OF AQUARIUM SALT? There are different benefits of aquarium salt which can be used in a different manner in an aquarium. Salt (sodium chloride/ table salt) does, in fact, make sure a direct linking to osmotic pressure. To enlighten this, picture a fish in an aquarium. The inner density of fish is inordinate than that of the water (fish comprise salt in form of sodium and chloride ions transported by the blood). Osmotic pressure can be finest defined as the water trying to dilute the fish’s body until both sides are equal. Freshwater fish, therefore, have to continually remove the water – mainly through breathing and urine. PREVENTION OF NITRITE POISONING The nitrite level should always be zero, or as close to zero as you can get it. Under certain circumstances, even comparatively low nitrate levels of 0.25 mg/l may be sufficient to decline sensitive species. Everything above 0.1 mg/l is viewed as an improper and probable cause of stress, even though some fish might bear high levels. Your system will stay fine as well as healthy if you keep your system fresh and not overfeeding your fish. Consistent small feeds during the course of the day are better than sudden large feeds. Fish occasionally go off their feed for a day or two. PARASITES Parasites are the roundworm, tapeworm, thorny-headed worms, and flukes. The fluke is a parasite worm that is noticeable on the skin or gills of the fish. Defining to free the tank of these worms basically does not feed your fish for 2-4 days as they will often feed on them. Only 0.4 – 0.5 mm in measurement, this oval formed worm can spread and results in fish death. External parasitic worms cannot easily be diagnosed. Advanced phases can be visible by sores on the skin. On the other hand, not all external worms do pretense a threat to the fish. REDUCING STRESS Throughout times of stress or when fish are diseased, their gills may not function competently. As per an outcome, fish can experience osmotic shock. When fish experience osmotic shock electrolytes get vanished through the gills. This weakens the fish’s capability of breathing, to take in oxygen and release carbon dioxide. Aquarium salt contains helpful electrolytes that assistance the electrolytes vanished during these times of stress and when fish are diseased, resulting in enhanced gill working. In place of this solicitation, increase one tablespoon of salt for every 5 gallons of water or per manufacturer commendations. HATCHING BRINE SHRIMP EGG Brine shrimp eggs are an outstanding food basis for numerous fish; then again require brackish water to survive. By accumulating freshwater aquarium salt to RO water, you can increase the salinity level of the water to accomplish brackish conditions. Add eight tablespoonfuls for every gallon of water until you attain a specific gravity of 1.005 and 1.015 SG. Remember to flap brine shrimp outside of the aquarium in a separate vessel as brine shrimp eggs can kill small fish that are incapable to digest them. WHITE SPOT AND VELVET White spot and velvet is a drug intended for the treatment of ornamental fish which have spots diseases and velvets diseases. An aquarium salt must be used when you encounter small spots, granular lesions or fluffy layers of pale grey in the fish body. These symptoms appear on the fins, gills and may extend to the whole body. Fish may try to remove it by rubbing it against the tank. It contains the concentrated bacterial solution which biologically filters and eliminates aquarium waste. The skin of the sick fish converts dusty due to the addition of mucus that their immune system generates as a protection mechanism. WATER CHEMISTRY MANAGEMENT Knowledge about water chemistry management is often skipped by maximum aquarium owners but knowing just the fundamentals of water chemistry, you can significantly progress your success in nurturing healthy fish. The water quality is by far the single greatest important factor in the health of your fish, and the more you know, the better job you will do. Many aquarium owners do not understand the basic internal chemistry of their fish’s water, nor do they understand how to appropriately or securely adjust it. Until you learn the basics chemistry of water and some common water maintenance techniques, it will be difficult to maintain your water quality i.e. keep a healthy and safe environment for the fish in your aquarium. HOW TO USE AN AQUARIUM SALT? PERFORMING A DIP Before handling parasites, a dip is the technique of choice. You need to add four tablespoons of aquarium salt in a clean bucket, and then gradually add One-Gallons of water from the aquarium, twirling it to dissolve the salt. Once the salt is totally dissolved, put the fish in the bucket for ten to thirty minutes. Witness the fish carefully, and if there are some signs of distress are observed, return the fish to the old aquarium instantly. A salt dip can head off potentially horrible infections, worsening slime coats, painful wounds, and a bulk of extra difficulties. But because salt doesn’t evaporate, you should remove the aquarium salt treatment with a chain of water changes after you’ve killed the parasites. PERFORMING A BATH This method is the process of preventing the tank from nitrite poisoning and reduction of the stress to the fish. It is very important to perform this method to keep the tank safer and cleaner. On behalf of stress treatment, measure out one teaspoon of salt for every gallon of water in the tank. Using a small bowl, melt the salt in a slight quantity of water taken from the tank. When it is completely dissolved, gradually add the solution to the to the tank. For treatment and prevention of nitrite poisoning, measure out four teaspoons of salt for each gallon of water in the tank. When using bath treatments, weekly water alterations of 28% must begin one week after preliminary treatment. We should not add additional salt once bath treatments have started. TYPE AND QUANTITY OF SALT Common aquarium salt is appropriate but it must be non-iodized and comprise no condiments. Rock or Kosher salt are outstanding choices, as they are conventional sodium chloride with nothing other additional. The amount will rest on just how and what it is used. A dip is a short exposure that is suitable for the extermination of pests. On behalf of dips, a 3% solution is generally used for up to a half hour. Baths are fundamentally giving the entire tank, and are beneficial for the treatment of stress, nitrite poisoning, as well as certain parasites. Salt concentrations for a bath are lesser, 1% or less, and are used for up to three weeks. HOW TO USE AQUARIUM SALT IN A SALT DIP TO TREAT INFECTIONS? This infection treating process is easy but if not done in a proper way it can create different problems. By uncovering your fish to salt temporarily, you can rapidly eradicate parasites. And all you need is a bucket or tank with a working air stone make sure to attach it to the appropriate air pump, some aquarium water, and some salt. The steps to perform this take are really easy. Here are the steps:- Fill a bucket with aquarium water Only appropriate water should be put on the bucket. Make assured that it has the same temperature and pH as your tank water. If it changes then the fish will be in shock and may die. The bucket also should be clean so that there is no contamination of water. Mix the salt solution Drizzle in 25 teaspoons of non-iodized salt for every 4 liters of water. Mix the solution until the salt is melted. When the solution is mixed well then only goes for the next phase. Lightly scoop fish into the aquarium salt treatment Wait five minutes, observing how your fish respond to the water. If your fish act a bit strange, that’s normal. But if they move over or rest to the corner and can’t right themselves, return them to the isolation tank and you might have to use the former salt treatment method instead. If all is fine and your fish remain to swim upright, keep up treatment for 60 minutes or more up to a total of 2.2 hours. Move your fish to a quarantine tank This tank must have the same temperature and pH levels as the aquarium salt treatment. Preferably, you’ll want to use a fully-cycled aquarium. All the fish should be gently put into aquarium using protective gloves. Treat the main aquarium to get free of any lasting parasites You can use salt or a medication for this. Once you’re sure that you’ve killed off all parasites (this will depend on the parasite life cycle), you can re-introduce your fish to their now parasite-free atmosphere. WHEN NOT TO USE AN AQUARIUM SALT? Although the benefits of aquarium salt are many, there is some drawback of aquarium salt hobbyist need to consider. Which I am going to cover in this portion of the article. There are many situations when we cannot use aquarium salt in an aquarium. Salt does not fade, it can only be removed by water changes and plants will not live higher absorptions. The cause is similar to what we can observe with fish that cannot live higher salt absorptions the reason is osmosis. Freshwater naturally movements from an environment with a little salt absorption to one with a higher salt concentration in water. As a result, the variety of plants and animals decrease because they cannot keep the water. And the salt content of their bodies at the correct concentrations for them to survive in the environment. So, when there are plants and scaleless fish in the aquarium then aquarium salt cannot be used. Many people think salt is not harmful to the fish but it isn’t because it comes in many forms like Iodized table salt. If an iodized table is added to an aquarium which has been known to source ammonia levels to rise and then nitrites. It could harshly trouble an established of aquarium’s biological filtration bed. PLANTED AQUARIUM Planted aquariums are an aquarium having diverse kinds of plants. Plants remove to remove unneeded elements from water which helps to growth water quality between water variations in an aquarium. There are many plants that cannot live in salted water so we should select appropriate plants for our planted aquarium. The type of salt that we are putting into the planted aquarium can also effect on the life of the plants. Different salts have different effects on different plants. Planted aquarium need a special care on ph level and level of salt than the regular aquarium. SCALELESS FISH Scaleless fish are allergic to aquarium salt, they don’t do well with aquarium salt so it should only be used for medicinal purposes. Extensive use of salt in freshwater tanks has been shown to cause kidney failure in fish so it is not recommended to put salt in aquarium water. Scale fish are very sensitive to different types of salts. A minimum level of salt can be adjusted by these fish but an extensive amount of salt is very much dangerous. If possible these scales less fish should be given special care more than other fish in the aquarium. CAUTION USING AQUARIUM SALT While using aquarium salt regularly we can face a different problem if we don’t do it properly and inappropriate time. Using salt as a preventative can make parasites resistant to salt treatments. So if fish get sick, you may have to stick to medications instead. By adding salt all of the time, your fish are constantly producing extra slime. This can be as uncomfortable as wearing an extra jacket during the winter season, even if you’re guarding against cold. Salt also acts as an irritant that’s how it thickens the slime coat. Salt and aquatic plants don’t mix. And some plants simply don’t tolerate salt well. Even so, most plants should do fine with a little bit of aquarium salt. A regular dosage can reverse the effects of zeolite filter media that removes ammonia. Only the right amount of salt should be used according to the aquarium size and water used in that aquarium. YOU SHOULD NEVER SALT YOUR AQUARIUM Freshwater fish doesn’t require additional salt or mineral in order to live happily and healthier as long as you are keeping regularly water change and good hygiene. The adequate availability of good bacteria also helps to fish live healthier. YOU SHOULD ALWAYS KEEP YOUR FRESHWATER AQUARIUM VERY LIGHTLY SALTED The accurate level of salt can support your fish in their osmotic regulation, decrease stress level and make their lives easier. Fish will be able to heal much faster if they get the proper amount of salt in water. YOU SHOULD ONLY EVER ADD SALT TO GIVE SICK OR INFECTED FISH A MEDICINAL BATH Salt is a very good mineral which can cure some parasitic infections and fungal growth. But, it also used as a tonic in those situations and only bath outside the aquarium. CONCLUSION In conclusion, aquarium salt is very important for the proper living of fish with a longer lifespan and healthier life. Aquarium hosts a big number of aquatic species that live in a variety of water conditions: saltwater, freshwater, and brackish water. Since several species, as well as important microbes, cannot tolerate radical or changing changes to their environment it is important for owners to maintain the ecosystem of the aquarium because. Lower stress by assisting the gill function. Fish kidneys are designed to defecate the water absorbed through the fish’s skin and gills. This is a big job and a constant one necessary for your fish’s survival. By adding aquarium salt to the water, the fish’s kidneys do fewer works, because the quantity of water engrossed into the blood by way of gills is reduced. Plants and algae have a vital role in maintaining an appropriate environment for the aquatic species. And last, disease prevention and cure are done with the help of aquarium salt. This is mostly not centered on enhancing the slime coat or regulatory osmotic control. But, against the stress protecting additives and water conditioners with the help of aquarium salt. Source: Thefishkeepingguide.com
Your ready for a new pet fish. You’ve carefully weighed all your options and decided on a Betta fish as Your ready for a new pet fish. You’ve carefully weighed all your options and decided on a Betta fish as your new pet – great choice! As far as fish go, Bettas are one of the more intelligent species; they’ve been shown to recognize their owner and can even be taught to do tricks like pushing a ball through a ring with their noses or eating food from your hand. They’re also quite beautiful to look at with all their big, fluttering fins and brilliant coloring. These fish often need just as much care, as any other fish in the fish keeping hobby. Below, we’ll cover all of the pet care basics that new and prospective Betta owners need to know. BUILDING YOUR NEW BETTA’S HOME Before running out to the pet store and picking out your new fish, it’s important to have everything you need. Here are the supplies and equipment you’ll need in order to own a betta fish: A two gallon (or larger) fish bowl, tank or aquarium. A Betta fish can live in a bowl as small as one gallon, but it is not recommended. Food in the form of pellets and insects. A thermometer to read the water temperature. These aren’t always necessary, but will often enhance your Betta’s habitat and overall health. You can purchase decorations (including live and artificial plants or floating driftwood pieces) or store-bought tank accessories for your Betta’s bowl. Bettas are a rare type of fish (called labyrinth fish) that have the ability to absorb oxygen from air as well as through their gills when in water. This is why Betta fish have a higher tolerance for poor water quality and don’t necessarily need water filters or aerators. That said, a Betta’s bowl still needs to be cleaned and its water changed regularly to keep it happy and healthy. With proper care, your pet Betta can live anywhere between two and four years, sometimes even longer. SETTING UP A NEW BETTA BOWL First, rinse your decorations with warm water to remove any impurities. Then place your decorations into the bowl and set up any filter equipment that you want to include inside the bowl or tank. Bettas thrive in water temperature that’s between 77 and 86 degrees Fahrenheit. It’s extremely important that you don’t place the bowl near air conditioners, vents, direct sunlight or anywhere else that could affect the water temperature or quality. Once you’ve got the furnishings in place, fill the bowl or tank with tap water treated with dechlorinator or water conditioner. Always follow the directions on the back of the water conditioner to ensure a successful water treatment. Fish are highly sensitive to fluctuating water conditions, so you’ll need to acclimate your Betta to its new home by putting it into a separate container (like a big glass) along with half the water that came with it from the pet store. Let the fish and water stand for about half an hour or until the temperature of the store water is equal to the water in the fishbowl. Then, add an equal amount of water from the fishbowl into the container with the fish, letting stand for about 20 minutes as the fish adjusts to change. Once the fish has adjusted, use a small fish net to remove the Betta from the container and place it in the fishbowl. Never introduce water from any local fish store or online website into your tank, as this can set off balance your aquarium’s ecosystem. Treat your tank as a closed system and quarantine any new fish for up to two weeks before introducing them into your tank. Keep the bowl and any containers your Betta will be in covered with a lid that has hole in it for airflow, as Betta fish can jump. WATER CHANGES AND FULL CLEANING Never change the water in your Betta’s tank all at once, as sudden fluctuations could end up being fatal. Instead, replace your Betta’s water in 20-25 percent portions, preparing a few gallons of water ahead of time to cut down on your wait time. Water changes for Betta bowls that don’t have filtration units should be done weekly while those with units can be done every two weeks. When it’s time for full cleaning, pour about 50 percent of the water from the fish bowl into a clean bucket, being careful not to stir up the gravel or waste that’s accumulated at the bottom of the bowl. Remove the fish with a net and place it, along with all bowl decorations, into the bucket. Use a clean paper towel to scrub the inside of the bowl and rinse it well with tap water (do not use soap), then clean all decorations, remove dead or rotting plant leaves and rinse the gravel in the bowl with tap water. Once the bowl is clean, pour the old water with your fish in it from the bucket into the bowl and top it off with pre-treated tap water or bottled drinking water that’s been left out to reach the right temperature. BETTA FEEDING BASICS Despite the popular misconception that they like to nibble aquatic plant roots, wild Betta fish are insectivores and don’t eat plants. Your pet Betta fish should be fed pellet fish food, about two to six pellets per day. Bettas also enjoy eating freeze-dried brine shrimp, bloodworms and black worms, but these treats should be limited to just once per week. More fish die from overfeeding than from starvation and Bettas are no exception. As a rule of thumb, feed your Betta only as much as it will eat in two minutes. For insects and worms, you have the option of feeding them to your fish live or dead, but if you feed them live worms you’ll need to rinse them off first. If you use gravel in your Betta’s fish bowl, steer clear of feeding your fish live food as it can hide in the gravel. FINDING THE RIGHT TANK MATES FOR YOUR BETTA Betta fish have the nickname of Siamese or Japanese fighting fish because they’re extremely aggressive and tend not to do well together. Never put two male Bettas in the same tank together or you run a very high risk of one killing the other. In larger tanks, it’s possible to keep more than one female Betta together, also known as a sorority tank. But even female Bettas have been known to attack each other. But afterwards they find there order in the tank and no longer fight. Goldfish generally cannot live with Betta fish several reasons. Betta fish are tropical fish and need water of at least 76 degrees Fahrenheit, while goldfish prefer cooler waters and can even live in icy water. Additionally, Bettas are insectivores while goldfish are omnivores, and goldfish tend to be bad fin-nippers, which won’t go over well with the Betta, which will bite back at a nippy fish. Bettas also do not do well with bigger or more colorful fish, as they’ll become intimidated and aggressive. Here’s a list of fish and other aquatic creatures that do make good tank mates for Bettas: Catfish: including bristlenose plecos, cory catfish (corydoras), Pygmy corydoras and glass catfish. Glass catfish do best in small groups, while bristlenose plecos can grow to be large and may require a tank upgrade at some point. Neon and Ember tetras: small schools of tetras can do well with bettas, but can also be fin-nippers and should be watched. Blue gouramis: have similar care requirements and tank conditions to the betta, but require tanks around 20-gallons in size. Khulii Loaches Ghost shrimp: be sure to choose large ones or select between eight and ten to put in with your betta so they don’t get eaten. African dwarf frogs: some of the best tank mates for bettas, just make sure the betta doesn’t eat all the frog’s food. Guppies: can make good tank mates, but there may be a few territorial fights until dominance is established. Try to pick common guppies instead of the fancy colorful ones. Competing colors induce more fighting.
In this article, we will be going over the stages we recommend for preparation of receiving goldfishes. WHY QUARANTINE YOUR GODLFISH Quarantining new fish means to keep them in an independent system, completely separated from the pond or tank. It is ALWAYS recommended to quarantine all new fish, no matter where the source comes from. It's not that his goldfish are sick, but the stress will weaken their ability to fight off any infections or outbreaks. You would be putting your other fish at risk if not separating them. It is recommended to quarantine for a minimum of 7 days before introducing the new fish to your primary pond or Aquarium. Please let the fish rest a few days before starting any treatment. Today, goldfishes comes from many sources such as Thailand, China, Taiwan, and USA. If new goldfishes are introduced into the same fish tank which already has other goldfishes, sometimes the bacteria mixes and one or more of the goldfish may become sick as a result. Apart from that, when two independently healthy goldfish are mixed together, one may become sick in the process. Often times goldfish will have a resistance to the bacteria they carry in small amounts and it may not make them sick unless they become stressed. At such a scenario, they may be overcome with the bacteria they carry. It is recommended that when carrying out quarantine to first of all have their own equipment, such as tank/tub, nets, sponge filter for a minimum time of 7 days to avoid cross contamination. You should clean the quarantine tank either first or last and ensure you wash your hands and arms between the process of cleaning the quarantine tank and your other existing tanks QUARANTINE PROCESS FOR RECEIVING NEW GOLDFISH Adequate space should be provided based on the goldfish's size. If you don't have an aquarium, you can use a plastic storage bin. You would fill it, and add sponge filter with Aeration. Setting up the water prior to receiving is more beneficial and will give time for the water to age. When you first receive the fish they should be placed in a tank that has salt at concentration of 1 – 2 tablespoons /10 gallons. This helps them deal with stress ACCLIMATION There are a few steps that you have to take for proper acclimation. 1. After you tear open your shipping box with excitement, you want to grab your bag (WITHOUT opening it at this point) and place the bag in the tank. 2. After the bag is placed in the tank, it should float there for 15-20 minutes. The goal is to get the temperature in the bag as close as aquarium temperature to prevent shock. 3. When both temperatures match you can then proceed to add aquarium water in to the bag. Slowly start adding tank water into the bag. 1 cup per 5 minutes is a good rate. Repeat 3 to 4 times. Leave the fish in the bag for another 15 minutes in the mixture of both waters. 4. You may then remove with fish from the bag either with soft net or bare hands. If you're going to grab it with your hands, make sure you wash your hands before handling the fish. 5. After removing the fish, you may dispose of the bag AND water. DO NOT place bagged water in your aquarium. If your fish do appear stressed while in the shipping bag, you should forego floating the bag, and instead move on to introducing the fish into your tank. Signs of stress include gasping for air with the mouth above the water, inability to remain upright, and overall lethargy and sluggishness. When the fish arrives, please leave them alone and turn off the aquarium light. After your fish are added to the tank, they may initially display some unusual behavior. This can include: Lying down on the bottom Swimming quickly toward the surface of the water and momentarily poking their mouth above the surface of the water, then darting back down below Swimming rapidly around the surface of the water with their mouth protruding above the surface All of these are normal behaviors seen as a result of the stress involved in the shipping process. Provided that your water parameters are correct, this behavior should subside rather quickly. Even if none of this unusual behavior is seen in your new fish, it will still take considerable time for them to become completely acclimated with their new surroundings. DONT FEED YOUR NEW FISH Often it can take a number of days, possibly as long as a week, before new fish begin eating. This is normal, and fish have no problems going a few days without food. If its below 50 degrees F, please refrain from feeding Goldfish. Please let them rest at least 48 hours before feeding. Let them rest and recover first. When they are actively swimming you can feed them a minimal amount with soaked pellets (1-2 Pellets a fish), or gel food. Continue this for 2 day, then increase the amount of food gradually.
You bought a fish and want to introduce it into a new tank. The number one issue for any new tank is beneficial bacteria. When you first set up a new tank you need to make sure to cycle it. What does cycling a tank mean. It means you've built up enough beneficial bacteria in your tank sufficiently to be able to introduce fish. The best way to cycle your tank is to set it up completely with all equipment and leave it running for about a month. You then have two options to introduce waste into the tank in order to accelerate the bacteria growth. You can either put fish food into the tank as if you were feeding a fish or you can include a small number of fish to make waste in the tank. After about a month there should be a bacteria count high enough to ensure the livelihood of the fish you want to house in your new tank. If you can't do the full month to give you enough bacteria you can do a shorter time, but you have to introduce fish at a much slower rate. Bacteria boosters can be used but don't depend on them doing all the work for you. Another option to cycle your tank faster is to move over filter, media, decorations, gravel from an already established tank to your new tank. This will be put bacteria bomb in your tank and will build your bacteria colony much faster. If you're still in doubt of the bacteria count being high enough in your tank you can feed much less food to your newly added fish. This will reduce the amount of wasting reducing the amount of bacteria needed to break the waste down. You can feed your new fish every other day or even every other couple of days. This will give the bacteria count in the tank a chance to catch up. If you have any further questions on this or any other matter, please feel free to contact us.
Depending on the sensitivity of your new fish you might need to take different precautions acclimating your new fish to your tank. If the new fish is not that sensitive a simple floating of the new fish in its bag is enough. Leaving it floating in the tank for about 15 minutes will ensure the temperature of the water in the bag will match the temperature of the water in your tank. For more delicate fish opening the bag for your new fish and putting small amounts of water from your tank into the fish bag will help more sensitive fish acclimate to the tank it is being introduced to. Add small amount of water about every 15 minutes until you have at least matched the amount of water that was in the bag to begin with. For even more sensitive fish different measures must be taken. What is most recommended is doing a drip acclimation. This entails putting the new fish in its original water into a bucket or container lower than the tank you are going to put the fish in. You need to run a piece of regular airline tubing from the tank the fish will be going into and the other end into the container the fish is in. Start a siphon and get the water draining from your tank into the container. You then want to slow the amount of water coming into the container be either using a regular air pump valve or simply tying a knot in the airline going into the container. Slow the flow to a good drip and let the water slower flow into the container. Once you have at least matched the water that came with the fish originally you can think about stopping the siphon and introduce the fish directly into its new tank. You can use any of these three methods, just make sure you know how sensitive the fish you are trying to introduce is in order to choose the correct method for you.